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Draw knife for greenland paddles

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The last paddle I made was in 2003 and all I had was my trusty block plane.

It took a month of sundays.

 

This time, I'm armed with a spoke shave but could use something a bit more aggressive to get things going.

 

I'd like to try roughing them out with a draw knife but, I've never used one before and have no idea what size or shape is best.

 

Any recommendations or tips in selecting or using a drawknife for shaping paddle blades? 

 

I'm thinking a straight 8" draw knife would be a good start. Is that too big? Would a curved blade be easier to manage?

 

thanks.


Deck stringers

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Jeff pointed out that my stringers should go over the masik and not under like I have them. Only the center stringer goes over.

I was going to leave it alone but, after fitting the coaming, I can see that it will change the appearance of the boat a fair amount.

 

As I make the swap, should the stringers terminate at the masik or should they extend a few inches aft? Extending them aft would extend the line in the fabric and may look better.

Thoughts? How have others done this?

 

Screen Shot 2016-08-18 at 9.37.48 AM.png

Need some input on classes

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I realize many of you would not be interested in classes but pretend you are and give me some input please.

 

Suddenly after searching for years, I have two new locations I can hold classes. They are very different and I while I could do both, I doubt I would have enough interest.

 

First location is summer camp location. Well outside of town, remote area, new facility still under development. Cafeteria, bunkhouses and small motel style rooms for guests. Location is nice, on a free flowing river, lots of woods and not much else around. Class would cost around $1450 including room and board. There is a Environmental group based there and they would probably offer us some distractions but really not much else entertainment wise other than a camp fire at night.

 

Second location is in Guntersville. We are a small town but good restaurants, lots of fast food, bars and such too.  Very large beautiful lake and the location is spectacular, right on the water with a panoramic view of the lake. Not going to affect the class but it is nice to take a break and launch you boat right there. Class, due the rent of the buildings would be $1,395.  No food or lodging

 

But,there are vacation rentals and campgrounds so you could bring your family and rent a lake house of camp and family could enjoy a vacation while you built you boat. If you have two or three people who wanted a class, I can set up a special class assuming the building is not rented. Probably always available in the winter.

 

Talk to be about these and tell me what you think.

Back brace mounting question

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Does anyone have photos of how they mounted the back brace?

I think I just drill and bolt the straps to the coaming but, how far forward?

 

Using blind nuts like these would make it an easy job.

 

How have others done it?

 

 

blindnut_md.jpg

Urethane coatings

Little People Kayak?

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Jeff,

 

A year ago, there was a "which design for a small woman" post, and of all your kayaks, you recommended the Shad. I would have to buy a new garage to build something that long, but a 14' to 15' low volume kayak for smaller people--say a 5 foot nothing 100 pounder, would be perfect. Do you foresee designing something like this?

Newbie just saying hello

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I am new both to kayak building and this forum. I am looking to possibly build the Freeb 12 and the Castaway. I am sure I will have a lot of questions but for now just wanted to say hello.

Short shot question

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Okay, I have the bug.  Trying to decide between Shad and Short shot.  I weigh 190 wear a size 10 shoe.  My paddling is on inland lakes where strong winds are common.  My question is whether or not Short shot could be used for the occasional one or two night camping trip?  Backpacker style camping, not everything and a dutch oven type camping.  Hammock,tarp, sleeping bag, single burner stove type kit.

 

 

Thanks for any opinion or input.

 

Warren


Low volume Ravenswood

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With the talk about the need for a smaller boat for petite people I started looking at a lower volume Ravenswood.  Largely because it is one of my better sellers and I think it is great boat, the length being right in the sweet spot for the most paddlers. Also a good size for the smaller female paddler..  My best seller is by far the VARDO but I think that is because of it larger size and seems foolish to try shrink it down.

 

I have a model I like now it just needs some fine tuning. Hardest part is stability.  Narrower boat is going to be a lot less stable, but lighter paddlers are more .... comfortable in lower stability than a heavier paddler. Finding that line is the hard part.

 

Just letting  you guys know that I am working on it.

 

Thanks Jeff

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Asked a question a few days ago, you answered same day.  Ordered my plans on the 23rd and here they are on my front porch today the 26th.  The instruction manual is much nicer than I expected.  Can't wait to get started.

 

Thanks

 

Warren

Curlew Frog

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Hi All new to SOF kayak.
Started the build a few months ago, following the build text in Jeff's book for this boat. Really no issues with build. Photo of finished frame, next to the "peace wall",( had to build this, one Sunday afternoon, because I had been ignoring someone, all week nights and all day Saturday, this sort of smoothed the waters).
Coaming made from bamboo lamells 200*5*2400 cut done to size, this was probably the hardest part so far, not overly happy with the outcome, with white epoxy glue lines showing, but it is really strong and I suppose will achieve the purpose.
Looking to start skinning next weekend.
Current temp 27 degrees C, ocean water temp. 20 degrees, looking forward to finish building and getting on the water.
Bill.

Attached Thumbnails

  • image.jpeg

Curlew Query.

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I'm 6'2' and go between 220 and 240 with size 12 feet. I'm wondering if the Curlew is going to be able to fit me. In case its not....

 

I currently use a Tsunami 145 but am looking for something that fits a bit tighter and is more responsive.

It needs to be quicker/faster than a 65 lb. donkey barge.

It needs to be able to handle conditions on Lake Michigan.

Cargo space is not a real consideration.

I plan to use it in some local river races but they're nowhere near Olympic caliber.

I'm comfortable with edging to get it round when I have to avoid obstacles on the river.

I really like the looks of the Firefly and Short Shot but was hoping to save a bit of cash by building my first one from

the free plans in the Fuselage Frame boats book.

So basically I was wondering given the items above if Curlew is likely to fit my size/needs and if not will Poco Barta?

Or are one of your other boats likely to be a better fit?

 

Thanks in advance and I hope you can make sense of my rambling.

 

 

 

 

 

Any boats in the NY/Long Island Area?

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I'm a potential builder, but would like to see a finished boat before starting the project. Anybody on Long Island or around New York city who wants to share their experience and show off their boat?

Thanks,

Dave

Odd boat

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A friend picked up a homemade Kruger type SOF with canvas over wood stringers and aluminum ribs.  

 

 

 

Now that it is all stripped I need to re-cover.  Kind of leaning towards the polyester as this will not be a hard used craft and the color options are more varied.  (It was painted white with some decorative trim along the sheer).  The tricky part is going to be around the coaming as it was originally attached to the plywood decking shown (completely rotted) and I would like not to replace the decking.  However, floating the coaming in and sewing it to the fabric may not work.  So I'm looking at the birch plywood option in 1/4" to duplicate the original build.

 

 

The stern section of the coaming is permanent and extends below the level of the skin.  The previous skin was tacked to the exterior of the coaming and then covered with a strip of canvas and painted in.  (If there was any filler used we couldn't tell)

 

i'm posting to get some ideas other than mine.

 

Also, Jeff, having worked with both your 8 oz and 11 1/2oz I will need to make a selection of cloth.  I found the 8 oz too open a weave and subject to pulling with the stitching but it did shrink.  The 11 1/2oz was better in that respect but didn't seem to heat shrink as well.  I have not gone to your store yet because the need is a little time away.

 

Thanks for any tidbits,

Joe

(well I tried to insert some pictures but they didn't upload.  I'll include them as a follow up.)

Wondering about hogged canoe issues?

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I'm interested in the Wallops 12 canoe.  Researching noted that keel hogging pops up often enough on SOF threads.  Any discussion on avoiding, building strategies, upgraded materials etc.?


Poco Barta Offsets

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Hello from north Arkansas. I started a Poco Barta from the offsets in the book. I have the frames done, but now I cannot find the offsets for the coaming. This a recent copy of the book, I bought it this past spring. I checked the website for corrections but nothing is listed. It is not listed on the metric offsets page either. I keep thinking I must be overlooking it, but if it here I sure can't find it.

 

Thanks for your help.

 

Terry W

What stringer dimensions

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What are the two short dimensions of the stringers?  Are they 3/4"x1"?  Trying to figure out what lumber will be the most efficient use of wood.  Will 1bys be the best place to start?

 

Thanks.

 

     Jbo

Vardo questions

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Hi,

I'm building from one of Jeff's kits and the manual. I'm on pages 34-35 of the manual and have a few questions:

1. On what frame does the laminated beam go on? I'm guessing 8' 2"?

2. Should the frame and/or laminated beam get trimmed to fit the frame better (this is the beam from the kit)?

3. Between what frames do the floorboards go?

4. Bow deck beams- do the end right at the edges of the frames?

5. Stern deck beams (the two side ones)- do they end at the frame edges (i.e. they're only about a foot long)?

 

Thanks,

Charlie

Shrink out wrinkles

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I've been silently building a FreeB in spare time off and on for past few months. Now that the weather has cooled and rain season has passed, I've got the itch to finish the boat. It's my first skin on frame and I love this process much more than epoxy stitch and glue. 

 

Quick question. I have two places at the rear of the coaming where I tried to manage the slack and hoped the wrinkles would shrink out. I'm not sure how taught the 8oz skin should be after ironing. I made several slow passes and it definitely is more taught to the point of removing fold creases and a coin will bounce on the skin. I tried the iron and heat gun on low. The stitch points are taught but the slack won't cinch up.

 

Any recommendations on how to improve?

 

Pre-shrink

8TbJP6v.jpg

 

 

Post-Shrink

t7nGM1v.jpg

 

This is the worse of the two sides, but both have visible wrinkles from slack. 

PS, I know the coaming fabric sewing looks like sh*t. I'm painting it and then covering with strip of wood or foam.

Vardo Build inProcess

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Just a quick note to thank all the super nice folks on this forum, Everyone has been so helpful, and encouraging.  Thought I'd take a minute to brag a little about, and thank, my wife who has given up our dining room so that I can build with adequate headroom and in warmth (our basement is a low ceiling, and we have no garage)

 

I hope I attached my pictures correctly!  Thanks Again, and more pics to come.

 

Finished Strongback.JPG Detail Strongback Joint and Spreader.JPG Templates Laid out for Cutting.JPG Finished Scarfe Joint.JPG Cutting Braces 2.JPG Braces to Strongback.JPG Cutting Braces 3.JPG Keel frames and Gunwales.JPG Gluing Up Coaming.JPG Ribs and more frames Stern.JPG

Attached Thumbnails

  • Ribs and more frames Bow.JPG
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